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On My Travels: A Weekend In Boulogne

8th April 2015 By Urvashi Roe 22 Comments

I first went to Boulogne as a teenager with secondary school.  We travelled in a hot and stuffy coach to Dover, then on an ugly ferry into an equally ugly concrete port.  I barely spoke enough English back then let alone French but I remember vividly asking an elderly lady for directions, understanding them and then giggling hysterically when she then understood ME!  It was enough to catapult the rain, the concrete and the noisy seagulls into obscurity and the start of my thirst for languages.

Despite the memory,  Boulogne has never been on my list of places to visit again.  However last year en route home from Paris, we stopped there for a late lunch and were so pleasantly surprised we decided it was worth planning  trip back and staying a bit longer this time.  The recent Easter weekend was the perfect time and here are my highlights of the city.

Take a guided tour of the city

Booking a guided tour is the best way to see key sights if you’re short on time.  We booked a guide, Marie, via the Boulogne Tourist Office.  She spoke excellent English and was very patient with questions from my girls.  We started at Quai Gambetta which is home to little wooden trading huts selling fresh fish every day.  Marie explained that the huts are run by fishermen’s wives and are open on different days depending on where their husbands fish.

Boulogne April 2015

Fish stalls at Quai Gambetta, Boulogne

Boulogne April 2015

Crabs at Quai Gambetta, Boulogne

Boulogne April 2015

Fish straight off the boat at Quai Gambetta, Boulogne

The tour continued into the old town visiting Notre Dame Cathedral.  The 101m tall landmark is dedicated to ‘Notre Dame’ or ‘Our Lady’.  Legend says that in the 7th century an unmanned ship sailed into the port of Boulogne with just a statue of the Virgin Mary.  The statue was taken to the church that stood where the cathedral is now and soon became a pilgrimage destination for many miracle seekers of the time.  That church was burned down and rebuilt many times over the centuries.  It’s truly magnificent inside and out and has so many points of architectural interest inspired by St Paul’s in London as well as St Peter’s in Rome.  We particularly loved the magic windows you can see from the outside but not the inside.

Boulogne April 2015

Notre Dame Cathedral, Boulogne

Following this we visited Chateau De Boulogne-Sur-Mer.  It’s a proper old fashioned 13th century castle with a moat.  It’s served many purposes over the years including housing soldiers.  It’s now however mainly a museum with some gorgeous examples of oceanic art.

Our last piece of history was to visit the town hall which houses the Beffroi de Boulogne-Sue-Mer or the Belfry.  It’s the oldest structure in the town and was first constructed as a dungeon but later became the only place in town to look out for enemy boats.  At the bottom of the Belfry you’ll see a wonderful stained glass window of the medieval knight Godefroy de Bouillon who was one of the leaders of the first Crusade.

Boulogne April 2015

Town Hall, Boulogne

Boulogne April 2015

Looking up the Belfry, Boulogne

Boulogne April 2015

Wonderful stained glass portrait at the Belfry, Boulogne

Just outside the Belfry there are also commemorative medals to the city of Boulogne for the part it has played in the first and second world wars.

Boulogne April 2015

Tributes to Boulogne for services during the first and second world wars

Our tour ended at Nausicaa National Sea Centre.  It was built in 1991 after a decade of preparation and planning from oceanographers and experts across the globe.  It’s objectives are clear from the exhibits inside – to raise awareness of the value of the oceans and encourage responsible behaviour so they can be enjoyed by future generations.  There is also a clear focus on research to preserve marine life and learn about how climate change is impacting plant and animal life in the sea. The whole site is in English and French except for a few videos and talks.  This makes it a must visit with children and you should allow a whole day to get the best from each of the different zones.  Our favourite was the lagoon area as we were lucky enough to see the baby Aldabra tortoises.

Boulogne April 2015

Jellyfish at Nausicaa, Boulogne – beautiful but becoming a pest with climate change and warmer waters

Boulogne April 2015

Baby Tortoises, Nausicaa, Boulogne

Boulogne April 2015

Nausicaa’s aquariums are home to over 36,000 fish and sea creatures

There is a brand new exhibit which launched while we were in Boulogne.   It’s called Ocean and Climate – It’s Getting Hot In Here! and shows how advanced museums have become in engaging their audiences.  There are so many interactive components that bring the messages of the exhibit to life as well as a 4D film.  We received a personal tour from Nausicaa’s General Manager Phillipe Valette which I must admit really made me stop and think.  Properly think.  About all of the different impacts my life is having on the ocean and life within it and life that depends on it.  This is exactly what the exhibit is designed to do and has been launched ahead of the 21st Climate Conference in December which France will host.  What I really enjoyed was the clever way the exhibit holds the attention of children and adults.  We all came away with different thoughts which led to a lively discussion over dinner about sea stations, sharks and icebergs!

The seafood is outstanding in Boulogne.  You can see from the freshness of the fish at Quai Gambetta above that chefs in town take quality very seriously.  There is so much choice in terms of eateries but a good place to start is the pedestrianised Rue de Lille where we found Le Swan and L’Ilot Vert or Place Dalton where we discovered a wonderful wine bar/bistro called Le Comptoir. As a huge fan of French patisserie I was a little disappointed that there weren’t little boutiques on every corner as there are in Paris but our daily visit to Benoit Leger did not disappoint.

Boulogne April 2015

Patisserie by Benoit Leger, Boulogne

I do hope that like us you’ll give Boulogne a (second) chance.  It really is worth some time and is a great base for the Opal Coast which I’ll write more about soon.

Thank you to Nausicaa for hosting me and my family at the exhibition and arranging a lovely tour of the city. 

What was your first trip away with school? Have you been back since? 

Related articles
  • Exploring Nausicaa
  • Eating, shopping and exploring in Boulogne-sur-Mer (amummytoo.co.uk)

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Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: boulogne, france, nausicaa, Pâtisserie, seafood, travel

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Comments

  1. Sarah Trivuncic, Maison Cupcake says

    8th April 2015 at 9:53 am

    I’ve seen the sign for Nausicaa from the motorway after leaving Calais but never visited there or Boulogne. Sounds like it’s definitely worth a trip!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      8th April 2015 at 8:30 pm

      Definitely. Your little one would love it I’m sure. Plus there is a sandy beach right next door for sand castles.

      Reply
  2. Becca @ Amuse Your Bouche says

    8th April 2015 at 1:39 pm

    I’ve never been to Boulogne but it sounds lovely (…not based on your first paragraph 😉 )

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      8th April 2015 at 8:29 pm

      Lol! It was lovely. A perfect getaway

      Reply
  3. superfitbabe says

    8th April 2015 at 3:28 pm

    Wow, what awesome sights to see! Hope you had a lovely trip!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      8th April 2015 at 8:29 pm

      I did thank you 🙂

      Reply
  4. Dannii @ Hungry Healthy Happy says

    8th April 2015 at 3:35 pm

    I have very happy memories of Boulogne, as I visited a lot when I was younger. It looks like it has changed a lot.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      8th April 2015 at 8:28 pm

      I think our younger selves looked for different things in those days. Boys I think lol!

      Reply
  5. garethhevans says

    8th April 2015 at 7:56 pm

    When I think of it the place gave me many firsts; oysters, skate and proper crabs – all on day trips. Lovely.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      8th April 2015 at 8:27 pm

      Lovely indeed. I didn’t eat fish for ages but I couldn’t get enough on this trip. So good

      Reply
  6. jensfood9 says

    8th April 2015 at 10:17 pm

    I’ve not visited Boulogne but it looks lovely from your photos. Also sounds like the National Sea Centre are doing a good job with their education programme.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      9th April 2015 at 8:08 pm

      Thanks Jen. Certainly worth a trip. So close

      Reply
  7. Kavey Eats says

    9th April 2015 at 11:13 am

    My first trip to France was a similar school trip to Boulogne, though I think we spent a lot of the time at the nearby hypermarche, no doubt because our teachers fancied the chance to get some shopping done! We did wander the old town too, though!

    I love aquariums, and have heard that this is a really good one.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      9th April 2015 at 8:10 pm

      I actually don’t like aquariums. Just feel they exploit but I did really enjoy Nausicaa. Their focus on education was what made the difference. Even their sea lion ‘show’ highlights the training they’ve been doing for medical benefits to the animals vs just showing them doing tricks.

      Reply
  8. Vasun says

    9th April 2015 at 4:38 pm

    Looks like a nice quaint getaway! love the shot of the stairwell from below

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      9th April 2015 at 8:11 pm

      Thank you. Yes a great get away and so many wonderful B&Bs on the tourist office website.

      Reply
  9. philipstrange says

    9th April 2015 at 7:36 pm

    I used to go to Boulogne when I lived in Canterbury, it was a good day out.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      9th April 2015 at 8:11 pm

      Indeed it is. Thanks for stopping by 🙂

      Reply
  10. kellie anderson says

    14th April 2015 at 10:59 am

    What a lovely picture essay. I especially like the upwards shot of the Belfry. Thanks for the wee tour!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      20th April 2015 at 8:35 pm

      A pleasure 🙂

      Reply
  11. Jo's Kitchen (@Jos_Kitchen) says

    14th April 2015 at 2:35 pm

    I want to go back to France. I haven’t been for ages

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      20th April 2015 at 8:35 pm

      We go everytime our wine stash runs out

      Reply

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Hi I'm Urvashi!

I love food. This blog is a little glimpse into my foodie world which is an escape from two teenage girls, a busy job and my little cafe.

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