Jam. Such a simple word. Why then does it instil so much fear when paired with the word ‘making’?
Blackcurrant and Habenero Chilli Jam
I made jam once. Poured it into a jar and it went solid. Rock solid. Even placing the jar in boiling water didn’t loosen the contents even slightly. The expensive Kilner jar went in the bin and jam making was laid to rest. Recipes and creative combinations filed away and forgotten…
Until a few weeks ago when I met Vivien Lloyd, author of First Preserves. Vivien was hosting an evening of jam making – step by step jam making – and I jumped at the chance to go.
Vivien Lloyd, author of First Preserves and WI Jam Judge
Let me dispel the first myth right away. Jam making does not require specialist equipment. Vivien had a portable cooker, a pan, a kitchen thermometer, an oven proof dish, a few spoons and of course some empty jars for filling. I think you should have all of these items in your kitchen and even if you don’t, they are readily available from most supermarkets.
Vivien started her Blackcurrant and Chilli Jam by preparing her fruit and took us through those naturally high in pectin which would be good for beginner jam makers. Blackcurrants, raspberries and gooseberries for example. Not strawberries. These have a high water content and low pectin levels and so beginners should avoid or pair with another fruit.
Most jam recipes start with cooking the fruit til it has softened and burst. Additional flavours, such as the Habanero chilli she was using, can be added by placing in a muslin bag and cooking out with the fruit. Once the fruit is ready, whatever is in the muslin bag can be squeezed out and then discarded.
Before adding the sugar Vivien tested the pectin levels by removing about a teaspoonful of the mixture and swirling it together with some methylated spirit. A jelly like clump formed which indicated that there was a good level of pectin present.
Checking for pectin using methylated spirit
A good sign of pectin levels
Next tip was for sugar. She had warmed it so that it would dissolve more easily and enable the mixture to reach setting point quickly. So logical. Now the dreaded, tricky part. Bubbling the jam until a ‘rolling boil’ and then to ‘setting point’.
A rolling boil
Vivien took us through various methods for testing setting point which are all explained in her book (with step by step pictures thankfully). Vivien prefers the simplicity of twirling the spoon until a droplet holds firm-ish – the flake test.
Checking for setting point
The final stage was simply removing any scum from the surface with a spoon…….
Scum at the end of the process
…. and then bottling up.
Bottling up
A few more excellent tips. Fill the jars to the brim because the mixture sinks as it cools. Re-use jars but not lids as strong flavours are retained.
I was now more confident to try my hand again. I settled for Vivien’s Gooseberry and Elderflower Jam recipe but I had left it too late for elderflowers and so used a vanilla pod instead. I halved the recipe as I only had 500g of gooseberries. It was all going really well until setting point. My mixture refused to fall off the spoon the way Vivien’s had done.
Hmmm….not quite so ‘set’ as Vivien’s
I didn’t have any meths to test a different method and had forgotten to put a plate in the freezer. So I reached for my themomter. 108C. I turned the cooker off right away and stirred to cool the mixture down quickly. It was very watery when it went into the jars and I could feel the ‘set anxiety’ rising. Time would tell. I tried to forget about it til the morning. I was not going to lose sleep over some jam!
In the morning, I reached for the jar. A comforting pop. A lovely set jam with a wonderful waft of vanilla along with the gooseberry.
It set!
But it was not quite as gloopy as Vivien’s had been so I assessed it as a little ‘overboiled’. Nevertheless I am very pleased with myself. No more jam making fears!
Have you ever made jam? What are your top jam tips?
Related articles
- Book review: First Preserves by Vivien Lloyd
- Full photo set on my Flickr
- Thoughts on the same evening by @fussfreeflavours.com
- Thoughts on the same evening by @cookingkt
- Gooseberry jam (emiliaskitchen.wordpress.com)
Set anxiety is just the worst isn’t it… I don’t think it’ll ever quite leave me! I’m
really chuffed your jam worked out, sounds like a delicious combo.
Thanks Katie. I’m enthused by your marmalade. My girls love it and at least making it at home you know exactly what’s gone into it
Jam making is so satisfying when it works, but really disheartening when it doesn’t – although I have been known to pour strawberry jam that failed to set over ice cream and call it sauce! Your gooseberry jam looks perfect, love the golden colour.
Thank you Sarah x what’s your fave fruit for jam?
Rhubarb and ginger for the colder months, then gooseberry and orange in the summer – but I’m intrigued by the blackcurrant and chilli jam, it may become a new favourite!
Fantastically useful post, Urvashi. I wish I could have been at the workshop. I didn’t know about the meths trick but that sounds way more fool-proof than saucer in the freezer thing. Love blackcurrant and chilli jam idea so if there is any left at my local PYO I shall make some at the weekend. Fearless I am! My fave jam is blackcurrant and raspberry with vanilla – it always sets and tastes fab. Strawberry is my nemesis…
Ha ha! I am learning that about strawberries!
Really enjoyed reading the blog….and YES it answered many of my questions! LOVELY pictures!
Glad there was a happy ending with your gooseberry jam. Last year we made damson jam and while the temperature was right it just looked too thin and liquid … but turned out just right the next day. Whereas we overboiled the next batch getting it all thick and sticky.
Also interested to learn about the meths trick!
It’s so hit and miss isn’t it! Frustrating!
They look brilliant. Thanks for the tips! 🙂
pleasure. 🙂
I love making jam – it’s so much nicer than shop bought! Your flavour sounds lovely – I haven’t tried gooseberry yet. Glad it all went well for you 🙂
Thank you. What’s your favourite to make?
I love making strawberry jam – involving a trip out to pick strawberries first and finishing up with making fresh scones to go with it! This year though I’ve discovered that rose petals make a lovely jam – particularly mixed with strawberries 🙂
Yummmmmm!
I am a great Jam making fan problem with that is that I don’t eat jam & partner thinks it is silly to give pots of jam as present, should lay this one to rest, shouldn’t I and give them away, will keep partner though! my favorite pear jam
I know what you mean. I think they work quite we;ll swirled into ice cream and biscuit dough though too so perhaps that will pacify your partner 🙂
I have only made jam once and that was a pink leminade inspired jam as I am obssessed with the flavour! It worked great on a cake I made which as yet I still have not posted 🙂 the evening looked really good.
Sounds like a great course. Your gooseberry jam looks wonderful. I made plum jam once and because the pan was too small I couldn’t increase the heat high enough to keep it boiling without spilling over! I got it to the magic 105C eventually and it was great jam. You’ve got me wanting to make it again now!
So have you mjade any yet? I saw the pic of greengauges and wondered….