I am a big fan of Seinfeld. It’s a silly US sitcom about the life of Jerry Seinfeld and his friends George, Elaine and Kramer. There is one episode in particular which makes me giggle even at the thought. It’s called ‘The Rye’ and the plot centres around a loaf of marble rye bread which appears and disappears. For all manner of reasons it’s utterly ridiculous but I was determined to visit a typical Jewish bakery in New York and buy myself a marble rye!
My guidebook told me there were many Jewish delis and eateries on East Houston Street so that’s where I headed. It wasn’t actually too far from the Tenement Museum.
Katz’s Delicatessen
In 1888, the Iceland brothers set up a small deli on Ludlow Street in New York’s Lower East Side. Upon the arrival of Willy Katz in 1903, the name of the store was officially changed to “Iceland & Katz”. Willy’s cousin Benny joined him in 1910, buying out the Iceland brothers to officially form Katz’s Delicatessen.
Katz’s Delicatessen, 205 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10002
In the early part of the twentieth century, the Lower East Side was home to millions of newly immigrated families. This, along with the lack of public and private transportation, forged a solid community and Katz’s became a focal point for congregating. On Fridays the neighbourhood turned out to enjoy franks and beans – a Katz tradition. During World War II, the three sons of the owners were all serving their country in the armed forces, and the family tradition of sending food to their sons became the company slogan “Send A Salami To Your Boy In The Army”.
I walked into the noisy deli and hoping for a table but sadly there was barely enough room to stand. I could just about admire the photos that lined the walls before I was jostled out by busy New Yorkers. I was told the photos were of famous customers that had once popped in during the era of Yiddish theatre when the place was filled with actors, singers and comedians. I didn’t recognise any but the faces were fascinating nonetheless.
Russ & Daughters
When Joel Russ started schlepping strings of Polish mushrooms on his shoulders to support his family and save up for a pushcart, he could never have imagined that four generations later his family would own a landmark building hailed by the Smithsonian Institute and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Russ & Daughters, 179 East Houston Street , New York, NY 10002
He opened his first store in 1914 on Orchard Street and expanded his wares to include salt cured herring and salmon. He moved to a larger premises in the 1920s and was joined by his daughters after school and on weekends. In 1933 Joel changed his business name to Russ & Daughters – it is believed to be the first business in the US to have the name & daughters in its title.
It’s a feast of a shop. Smoked salmon from every corner of the globe, herring presented in pickles or oil or salt, sweets that I cannot even start to list but trays including halva caught my eye, flavoured and plain cream cheese, bagels with seeds, grains and plain and almost every Jewish condiment you could name.
The sweet side of the deli
Smoked salmon of every kind
I’d never seen this range of flavoured cream cheeses before
The Original Yonah Schimmel Knishery
A knish or knysh is an Eastern European, and Jewish snack food which was made popular in North America by Eastern European immigrants. In 1890, Yonah Schimmel, a Romanian immigrant sold his knishes on a pushcart. As business grew, he rented a small store on Houston Street with his cousin Joseph Berger. Yonah left the business a few years later and Berger took over but kept the original name. The in 1910, the Bergers moved the business to the south side of Houston Street where it is now. It is still family owned and now run by Yonah’s great nephew, Alex Wolfman.
Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery, 137 E Houston Street, New York, NY 10002
The sign today
I had never tasted a knish before and though the whole place looked downtrodden and forgotten, it was rammed with orders flying in all directions. The menu was mesmerising. Sweet and savoury offerings so I really didn’t know what to expect. I chose the tray which had just been brought out and was steaming the window pane.
Which knish to choose?
Steaming Knishes
It was delicious. Cheesy mashed potato with flecks of spinach and a little pastry round the outside. In just three bites I was getting full so it’s no wonder this was a street food that was designed to fill up the hungry labourers.
Proper cheap, comfort food
I had spent the afternoon wandering between these Jewish eateries and had not found my Marble Rye but what an audio visual feast I’d had. The voices sounded like the backdrop to Seinfeld even though the area is miles away from where it is filmed. I’m certain I saw George’s dad arguing with someone and Jerry’s mother gossiping with a group of friends. I smelled the pavement and the steam from the sewers alongside the bagels and the cakes and they all reeked of a history that is well and truly alive.
I bet you’d have to go to Queens. Can’t think of the name anymore on the Upper West Side but it closed maybe in the late 80s. Maybe you’ll have to see it as a mythical bread and re-create it. I could help you. I feel confident I could make one… it’s probably adding elements of a pumpernickel into half the rye dough, then kneading to form a particular pattern. I loved reading this btw. I love knishes so much– I love the kasha ones, and the spinach ones. Am going to research Marble Rye for you and if successful will return. Best wishes.
Thank you so much! It would be amazing to create one. My friends live in Queens but when I walked around there it was very much a Greek neighbourhood.
ok, i think maybe Zaro’s sells them still http://www.zaro.com/locations/
On the list for the next time I go!!
I have never eaten a knish. Now longing to!
I just love the name. It’s fantastic in the New York accent.
I like how you photograph all the signs – that’s what my graphic designer husband would do!
Yes it rally helps me remember all the places. I start with a sign of the place and end with a pic so I know where the in between shots were taken
Fantastically interesting post – I’d never heard of Knish before and I’d love to try one.
Thank you. They’re very hearty. Perfect for cold weather. Not sure I could indulge in hotter months
I loved reading your post and seeing the photos. Two of the places you visited are mentioned in one of Calvin Trillin’s pieces about New York that I was reading recently, so it was really nice to see the pictures.
I haven’t heard of Calvin’s book but I must check it out before I go again. I love reading books about the places I’m travelling to and then as you say finding some of the areas mentioned within. It’s such a fascinating place. You can literally do anything at any time of day. Bonkers!
I have no idea about where to get marble rye (sorry), but wanted to say this is a great post and I’ll be checking out some of these eateries when I’m in NY soon. Thanks!
A pleasure. I’m making cannoli this weekend inspired by Ferarra so look out for that one too. Also check out grand central oyster bar. Awesome place. Review filed in travel section of this blog xx
Read this, thought of you: http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/06/rebuilding-the-jewish-bakery.html
Fantastic. Cannot believe they have an 80 year old starter. Amazing
Looking forward to seeing your cannoli – I ‘ve been meaning to make it! Lovely photos Urvashi.
It won’t be as good as I ate over there with the smells of the street and the NY accents. Aaah can’t wait for the kitchen to be finished. Tomo. Tomo. Tomo!
New York is my favourite place in the world. There’s a great Jewish deli at the foot of the Flatiron but the name escapes me…
It is just such a fascinating place. Different every time I’ve been. I found all the delis so inspiring. So much history
I found it – Eisenberg’s. http://bigspud.co.uk/2008/10/26/eggs-sausage-grits-and-potatoes/
Loving the photos and now I am craving an episode of Seinfeld or two,while eating one or two of those knishes with a glass of ice cold white wine. Oh yes it’s sounding good!
I’m not sure what the founding fathers of the knisheries would think of white wine. Such an extravagance in their day I imagine. But I’m with you! Some of that cream cheese and salmon thrown in too. Cheers!
A wonderful evocative post Urvashi, I almost feel as if I am there.
Aww thanks Helen. I wish I were there. I know it’s glorious here at the moment but I loved the buzz of New York. So very different to London
I have been to NYC a few times and I still haven’t been to Katz’s. I think I need another trip just to go there haha
Def a must go. I would like to go again at Christmas time to sample some of their seasonal specialities.
Great post Urvashi, i’ve not been to NYC for over a decade but your post has made me want to go back. Those flavoured cream cheeses look utterly amazing… am now fantasising about an onion bagel with Lox cream cheese slathered all over it… gaaaaaaah!
Oh dear sorry I am making you fantasize about rather unhealthy things but I am totally with you. That cream cheese was just amazing.
Another article for you, in case you haven’t seen http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/28/dining/everything-new-is-old-again.html?_r=0
Funny. We have the same trend here