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On My Travels: From Pushcarts to Posh Delis On East Houston Street, New York

2nd June 2014 By Urvashi Roe 32 Comments

I am a big fan of Seinfeld.  It’s a silly US sitcom about the life of Jerry Seinfeld and his friends George, Elaine and Kramer.  There is one episode in particular which makes me giggle even at the thought.  It’s called ‘The Rye’ and the plot centres around a loaf of marble rye bread which appears and disappears. For all manner of reasons it’s utterly ridiculous but I was determined to visit a typical Jewish bakery in New York and buy myself a marble rye!

My guidebook told me there were many Jewish delis and eateries on East Houston Street so that’s where I headed.  It wasn’t actually too far from the Tenement Museum.

Katz’s Delicatessen

In 1888, the Iceland brothers set up a small deli on Ludlow Street in New York’s Lower East Side. Upon the arrival of Willy Katz in 1903, the name of the store was officially changed to “Iceland & Katz”. Willy’s cousin Benny joined him in 1910, buying out the Iceland brothers to officially form Katz’s Delicatessen.

Katz's delicatessen, new york

Katz’s Delicatessen, 205 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10002

In the early part of the twentieth century, the Lower East Side was home to millions of newly immigrated families. This, along with the lack of public and private transportation, forged a solid community and Katz’s became a focal point for congregating. On Fridays the neighbourhood turned out to enjoy franks and beans – a Katz tradition.  During World War II, the three sons of the owners were all serving their country in the armed forces, and the family tradition of sending food to their sons became the company slogan “Send A Salami To Your Boy In The Army”.

I walked into the noisy deli and hoping for a table but sadly there was barely enough room to stand.  I could just about admire the photos that lined the walls before I was jostled out by busy New Yorkers.  I was told the photos were of famous customers that had once popped in during the era of Yiddish theatre when the place was filled with actors, singers and comedians.   I didn’t recognise any but the faces were fascinating nonetheless.

Russ & Daughters

When Joel Russ started schlepping strings of Polish mushrooms on his shoulders to support his family and save up for a pushcart, he could never have imagined that four generations later his family would own a landmark building hailed by the Smithsonian Institute and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Russ & Daughters Deli

Russ & Daughters, 179 East Houston Street , New York, NY 10002

He opened his first store in 1914 on Orchard Street and expanded his wares to include salt cured herring and salmon. He moved to a larger premises in the 1920s and was joined by his daughters after school and on weekends. In 1933 Joel changed his business name to Russ & Daughters – it is believed to be the first business in the US to have the name & daughters in its title.

It’s a feast of a shop.  Smoked salmon from every corner of the globe, herring presented in pickles or oil or salt, sweets that I cannot even start to list but trays including halva caught my eye, flavoured and plain cream cheese, bagels with seeds, grains and plain and almost every Jewish condiment you could name.

Russ and Daughters, New York

The sweet side of the deli

Russ and Daughters, New York

Smoked salmon of every kind

Russ and Daughters, New York

I’d never seen this range of flavoured cream cheeses before

The Original Yonah Schimmel Knishery

A knish or knysh is an Eastern European, and Jewish snack food which was made popular in North America by Eastern European immigrants.  In 1890, Yonah Schimmel, a Romanian immigrant sold his knishes on a pushcart.  As business grew, he rented a small store on Houston Street with his cousin Joseph Berger.  Yonah left the business a few years later and Berger took over but kept the original name.  The in 1910, the Bergers moved the business to the south side of Houston Street where it is now.  It is still family owned and now run by Yonah’s great nephew, Alex Wolfman.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery, New York

Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery, 137 E Houston Street, New York, NY 10002

Yonah Schimmel Knishery, New York

The sign today

I had never tasted a knish before and though the whole place looked downtrodden and forgotten, it was rammed with orders flying in all directions. The menu was mesmerising. Sweet and savoury offerings so I really didn’t know what to expect.  I chose  the tray which had just been brought out and was steaming the window pane.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery, New York

Which knish to choose?

Knish

Steaming Knishes

It was delicious.  Cheesy mashed potato with flecks of spinach and a little pastry round the outside.  In just three bites I was getting full so it’s no wonder this was a street food that was designed to fill up the hungry labourers.

Knish, new york

Proper cheap, comfort food

I had spent the afternoon wandering between these Jewish eateries and had not found my Marble Rye but what an audio visual feast I’d had.  The voices sounded like the backdrop to Seinfeld even though the area is miles away from where it is filmed.  I’m certain I saw George’s dad arguing with someone and Jerry’s mother gossiping with a group of friends.  I smelled the pavement and the steam from the sewers alongside the bagels and the cakes and they all reeked of a history that is well and truly alive.

Have you been to any Jewish eateries? Where do you think I should go looking for my Marble Rye? 

Related

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: food, Jewish Food, Katz's Deli, New York, Russ and Daughters, USA, Yonah Schimmel

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Kitchen-Counter-Culture says

    2nd June 2014 at 10:38 pm

    I bet you’d have to go to Queens. Can’t think of the name anymore on the Upper West Side but it closed maybe in the late 80s. Maybe you’ll have to see it as a mythical bread and re-create it. I could help you. I feel confident I could make one… it’s probably adding elements of a pumpernickel into half the rye dough, then kneading to form a particular pattern. I loved reading this btw. I love knishes so much– I love the kasha ones, and the spinach ones. Am going to research Marble Rye for you and if successful will return. Best wishes.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      2nd June 2014 at 10:40 pm

      Thank you so much! It would be amazing to create one. My friends live in Queens but when I walked around there it was very much a Greek neighbourhood.

      Reply
  2. Kitchen-Counter-Culture says

    2nd June 2014 at 10:50 pm

    ok, i think maybe Zaro’s sells them still http://www.zaro.com/locations/

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      2nd June 2014 at 11:17 pm

      On the list for the next time I go!!

      Reply
  3. Sally says

    3rd June 2014 at 7:00 am

    I have never eaten a knish. Now longing to!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      3rd June 2014 at 7:01 am

      I just love the name. It’s fantastic in the New York accent.

      Reply
  4. Sarah Maison Cupcake says

    3rd June 2014 at 9:11 pm

    I like how you photograph all the signs – that’s what my graphic designer husband would do!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      4th June 2014 at 8:51 am

      Yes it rally helps me remember all the places. I start with a sign of the place and end with a pic so I know where the in between shots were taken

      Reply
  5. Jan Bennett says

    4th June 2014 at 6:34 am

    Fantastically interesting post – I’d never heard of Knish before and I’d love to try one.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      4th June 2014 at 8:43 am

      Thank you. They’re very hearty. Perfect for cold weather. Not sure I could indulge in hotter months

      Reply
  6. Sarah says

    4th June 2014 at 8:59 pm

    I loved reading your post and seeing the photos. Two of the places you visited are mentioned in one of Calvin Trillin’s pieces about New York that I was reading recently, so it was really nice to see the pictures.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      12th June 2014 at 3:56 pm

      I haven’t heard of Calvin’s book but I must check it out before I go again. I love reading books about the places I’m travelling to and then as you say finding some of the areas mentioned within. It’s such a fascinating place. You can literally do anything at any time of day. Bonkers!

      Reply
  7. Ngan R. says

    10th June 2014 at 5:49 pm

    I have no idea about where to get marble rye (sorry), but wanted to say this is a great post and I’ll be checking out some of these eateries when I’m in NY soon. Thanks!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      11th June 2014 at 9:21 pm

      A pleasure. I’m making cannoli this weekend inspired by Ferarra so look out for that one too. Also check out grand central oyster bar. Awesome place. Review filed in travel section of this blog xx

      Reply
  8. Kitchen-Counter-Culture says

    11th June 2014 at 11:55 pm

    Read this, thought of you: http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/06/rebuilding-the-jewish-bakery.html

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      12th June 2014 at 6:54 am

      Fantastic. Cannot believe they have an 80 year old starter. Amazing

      Reply
  9. Stuart says

    12th June 2014 at 9:56 pm

    Looking forward to seeing your cannoli – I ‘ve been meaning to make it! Lovely photos Urvashi.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      12th June 2014 at 10:01 pm

      It won’t be as good as I ate over there with the smells of the street and the NY accents. Aaah can’t wait for the kitchen to be finished. Tomo. Tomo. Tomo!

      Reply
  10. Gary says

    12th June 2014 at 10:22 pm

    New York is my favourite place in the world. There’s a great Jewish deli at the foot of the Flatiron but the name escapes me…

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      12th June 2014 at 10:24 pm

      It is just such a fascinating place. Different every time I’ve been. I found all the delis so inspiring. So much history

      Reply
      • Gary says

        13th June 2014 at 10:21 am

        I found it – Eisenberg’s. http://bigspud.co.uk/2008/10/26/eggs-sausage-grits-and-potatoes/

        Reply
  11. Jac -Tinned Tomatoes (@tinnedtoms) says

    13th June 2014 at 12:09 am

    Loving the photos and now I am craving an episode of Seinfeld or two,while eating one or two of those knishes with a glass of ice cold white wine. Oh yes it’s sounding good!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      13th June 2014 at 6:31 am

      I’m not sure what the founding fathers of the knisheries would think of white wine. Such an extravagance in their day I imagine. But I’m with you! Some of that cream cheese and salmon thrown in too. Cheers!

      Reply
  12. Fuss Free Helen says

    13th June 2014 at 8:29 am

    A wonderful evocative post Urvashi, I almost feel as if I am there.

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      1st July 2014 at 2:45 pm

      Aww thanks Helen. I wish I were there. I know it’s glorious here at the moment but I loved the buzz of New York. So very different to London

      Reply
  13. Dannii @ Hungry Healthy Happy says

    13th June 2014 at 9:43 am

    I have been to NYC a few times and I still haven’t been to Katz’s. I think I need another trip just to go there haha

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      1st July 2014 at 2:44 pm

      Def a must go. I would like to go again at Christmas time to sample some of their seasonal specialities.

      Reply
  14. Katie Bryson (@cookingkt) says

    13th June 2014 at 2:25 pm

    Great post Urvashi, i’ve not been to NYC for over a decade but your post has made me want to go back. Those flavoured cream cheeses look utterly amazing… am now fantasising about an onion bagel with Lox cream cheese slathered all over it… gaaaaaaah!

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      1st July 2014 at 2:43 pm

      Oh dear sorry I am making you fantasize about rather unhealthy things but I am totally with you. That cream cheese was just amazing.

      Reply
  15. Kitchen-Counter-Culture says

    16th June 2014 at 10:22 pm

    Another article for you, in case you haven’t seen http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/28/dining/everything-new-is-old-again.html?_r=0

    Reply
    • Urvashi Roe says

      18th June 2014 at 7:53 am

      Funny. We have the same trend here

      Reply

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Hi I'm Urvashi!

I love food. This blog is a little glimpse into my foodie world which is an escape from two teenage girls, a busy job and my little cafe.

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